Clip-together insulated flue pipe is generally referred to as "twin wall". It is two skins of metal with about an inch of insulation (Rockwool usually) sandwiched in between. Twin wall pipe generally gets no hotter than a radiator and can be as close as 5cm to combustible materials without any fire risk. So when we refer to "twin wall" pipe, this is what we mean. Single skin vitreous pipe is metal flue pipe 1-2mm thick. This gets very hot indeed and can set fire to combustible materials if they get too close.

Because twin wall pipe has clip-on locking bands a chimney made only of twin wall (without vitreous pipe at all) is very strong structurally. Hence only one bracket is required. We often get asked if we can use vitreous pipe instead of the insulated twin wall for the first metre above the stove. We can. BUT the joint is weak (wobbly) and this can only be rectified by having two twin wall brackets instead of one. Also single skin vitreous pipe must be kept at least 15-18" away from any combustible materials. Let us know if this is a customisation you wish to make.

5" twin wall has a outer diameter of 192mm and 6" has a diameter of 217mm. Your hole diameter in the roof will be 300mm for 5" twin wall and 325mm for 6" twin wall. Add another 4cm to this hole size if passing through a boxed-in area (where heat might build up).

Because it is insulated the clip-together insulated flue pipe can be as close as 5cm to wood and is completely safe (7cm if the flue is boxed in). It typically gets no hotter than a radiator. For more info on combustible materials and hearths etc. see further down in this article.

NOTE: If fitting an Ekol Applepie stove, with their bespoke rear adaptor, we will need to add a sweep door to the lowest section. See "Customer's Also Bought".

This kit assumes you have a roof overhang of no more than 8.5cm. If your overhang is between 8.5cm and 15cm let us know the overhang dimension in the NOTES section of checkout (we can upgrade you to longer brackets at no extra cost). If overhang longer than 15cm you will require a bespoke twin wall chimney design.

With this same kit you can juggle the lengths around as required and therefore create three different configurations with this one kit: 2A, 2B or 2C and this should be the same whether your roof is flat or sloping. The simple diagrams below are for a 2.3m wall height with a 50cm high stove. The taller the first pipe placed on the stove, the better the performance so 2B or 2C are preferred (but do not over-worry this).

It is easy peasy - honestly. The two sealing plates we supply are easy to install and leakage is zero when installed properly. They are ideally applied to a flat surface with silicon sealant. Hole size will be an elipse (egg shape) and you can draw around the inside of the flashing to get you hole shape. But then you will need to make that elipse larger: plus 50mm air gap all round for safety (70mm all round if pipe is boxed in and not open to the air). So that's 100mm extra on the eclipse diameter or 140mm extra on the eclipse diameter if passing through a boxed in area. You can fill the air gap with Rockwool afterwards.

This twin wall adaptor is supplied with the kit and is the lowest part in the system and connects to the stove. The snout of this part can be cut shorter so it is all hidden within the stove collar. Wrap fireproof webbing (included with the shed kit) around the snout before sliding the snout snugly into the stove, No fire cement then required.

This part can slip into the female end of a length of vitreous (NOT the tapered end) OR directly into a stove if going "twin wall all the way".

See "CUSTOMISE SHED KIT" in "Customers Also Bought". Below are just a few of the options available - why not take a look?

You might wish to replace the bottom length of twin wall with a "removable" section so the stove can be removed as desired without dismantling the chimney. Building regs does state that a stove should be removable without dismantling a chimney so this can be wise. Our thoughts with such a short chimney are that the chimney is so easy to dismantle anyway this point is rather moot. Note also that Building Regulations are usually not relevant for properties not connected to a main dwelling and classed as non-habitable (don't take our word for it for every situation).

If you do choose to opt for this part it has its own built in adaptor to connect to the stove.

More about this part here including detailed images of the exploded part.

To add this part instead of a standard 500mm length please see please see "CUSTOMISE SHED KIT" in "Customers Also Bought".

Need to add any extra lengths? You can choose your items here. Do not forget that every extra length requires a narrow locking band as these are not included by default.

You can have up to 1.8 metres of unsupported flue (so 1.8 metres above the highest bracket or roof support). If more than 1.5 metres unsupported (but less than 2 metres) please add a "wide locking band" to the first joint above the highest bracket /roof support. Wide locking bands go around narrow locking bands (so both needed on same joint).

If like many people, your shed or garage is your refuge, then you want to make it as comfortable as possible. This means finding a way to keep it heated during the colder months.

A small wood burning stove is the perfect solution. It can completely transform a cold and unwelcoming shed or garage into a warm and cosy retreat.

Installation is probably a lot easier than you might think. With sheds, garages and garden rooms not attached to the main property no permissions or certificates are usually required. DIY wood stove install is not a difficult task as the chimney system is "clip-together" and because it is a shed we are not working at a great height.

For most small spaces, a small 4-5kW logburner is probably the right choice. You can use a calculator to check what heat output would be best (you can find out what size wood stove for your room here). This is based on the space inside your shed.  However, unless you have a huge shed or garage, a 4kW or small 5kW stove is probably the right size for you. While small, it will produce a lovely cosy fire and plenty of heat. Or choose a smaller 5kW stove and put less wood in it!

Some stoves have integrated log storage which can be handy, as it will save you from going out in the cold when your stove needs topping up with combustibles.

Ultimately, it is a matter of preference. The best stove is one that fits in the space, and that you like the design of. Check out the small stoves on this page or view all of our wood burning stoves.

1. First, you choose the location. 
2. Then a heat resistant base is placed (the hearth). Hearths should be a minimum of 12mm thick (or 125mm thick with some stoves see SPECIFICATIONS on a stove's product page) and, if following building regulations, be a minimum size of 84cm x 84cm square (one large slab or a jigsaw of smaller pieces). If choosing slate or granite go for 2.5cm or 3cm thick for strength so it does not crack under the weight of the stove. Visit your local builder's merchants "outdoor yard" lots of slabs and slates and tiles to choose from (some very cheap but can look really great). The 84x84 is building regs size for inside a habitable room. Non habitable rooms (e.g. sheds) it is up to you but we recommend 6" around the stove minimum and 30cm in front of the stove to catch any embers that may drop out the door (also the floor in front of the stove can get very hot). It is best to bed your hearth down on a thin sand/cement mix. You can though just lie the slab straight down on the floor (more chance of a slab cracking without the sand/cement mix though - but unlikely unless undulating surface under flat slab).
3. Next, heat shields are placed on any combustible walls near the stove to protect them from getting too hot. Best read the article on this one. It is the air gap that protects the building and not the shield. Quick read of this subject matter is further down this page. Stoves, Vitreous Pipe and Twin Wall pipe all have different distance to combustibles requirements.
4. Place the stove in situ.
5. A hole is made in the roof (or wall) for the flue pipe. In the wall or sloping roof this will be an eclipse (egg shape) but a flat ceiling it is a round hole. Leave an air gap of a minimum 5cm all around the flue pipe (7cm if boxed in e.g. when passing through a void). Hole size should be diameter of pipe plus 50mm air gap all round for safety (70mm all round if pipe boxed in and not open to the air). So that's 100mm extra on the diameter, or 140mm extra on the diameter. 5" twin wall has an outer diameter of 192mm and 6" has a diameter of 217mm. You can leave any void as just an air gap or fill any wall or ceiling void/air gap with Rockwool afterwards. Use Rockwool as it is A1 fire-rated (will not catch fire).
6. To work out which way up your flue pipes go (which is the top and which is the bottom?) attach the cowl to one of your lengths (cowl is the witch's hat that stops rain entering the chimney). The cowl will only fit to one end and once done you know which is the top of a length of pipe (it is the end that happily fits to the cowl!).
7. Twin wall parts connect to each other using narrow locking bands. That is it. No sealant or glue of any kind required. No sealant or glue is required anywhere on this install.
8. The first part into the stove is the "stove to twin wall adaptor" (see this part here). This adaptor is usually 4" to 5" or 5" to 5" or 5" to 6" or 6" to 6" (if the snout does not fit INTO the stove hole then you have the wrong size. It can insert into a stove or into vitreous pipe and acts as the transition to twin wall "clip-together" chimney parts. You might wish to clip your adaptor to the first length of twin wall "clip-together" pipe with one of the supplied narrow locking bands (choose a 500mm length or a 1000mm length up to you - we supply both so you can juggle around to avoid having a joint hidden in a ceiling void which is not good practice). The adaptor is a loose fit in the stove (they always are) "like a pencil in a bucket" (exaggeration). The adaptor has a "snout" that goes inside the hole on top of your stove. The snout can be cut down if too long using a grinder and 1mm thick metal cutting disk (where goggles and gloves). You can smear Fire Cement around the snout to seal the gap if you wish (the old way). This is water soluble so you can wipe away any excess using a damp cloth. It will not harden until many hours have gone by or the stove is lit. But fire cement dries a horrible light grey colour and cracks and falls out the gap over time. We recommend wrapping fireproof webbing (supplied) around the snout (one layer should be enough but double-layer if required) and sliding the snout into the stove. Do not over-worry how airtight this is - imagine an open fire in your local pub: a great gaping hole open to the room. Chimneys suck from the top: smoke does not escape through gaps unless the chimney is blocked or a sudden downdraft and if that happens the smoke would pour out the air vents of your stove! You can drill a hole the size of a 50p in your flue pipe and it will suck air into the flue and not the other way around.
9. Fit your flashing. EDPM Eaziseal flashing: screws to a roof using wood screws (if roof is made if wood) or metal roofing screws (if roof is made of metal). You will drill holes in the EDPM flange to take the screws. With the Ezi-seal flashing no glue/silicon/sealant is required. If you have roof tiles then you will likely have chosen an "Aluminium Rubber Flashing" or lead aluminium flashing. Installation of this flashing involves removing tiles, fitting the flashing and then replacing the tiles. Best bet here is Google the subject. With both flashings you will have to cut your required hole size in the rubber "nungy" (made up word I think... hope it is not rude).
10. Hide the hole inside the building with the finishing plate supplied (a few dots of silicon will stick this to the wall or ceiling). If passing through a wall it is the same with the outside of the building (if outside is not completely flat you may have to create a flat area using Hardiebacker board or similar. There is no "defined method" for outside as so many different surfaces.
11. If your chimney has more than 1.8m unsupported flue then add a Wide Locking Band to the lowest unsupported joint (in addition to narrow locking band and it goes over it so two locking bands on one joint).
12. Fit your bracket/brackets.
13. Fit a Carbon Monoxide Detector.
14. You should have a small bag with the fireproof webbing in and some other screws etc. (Useful Items bag). You only need the webbing. If you only get the webbing then I finally got my act together and did a separate bag instead of sending screws you don't need ;-)
15. Any questions Julian is usually on Live Chat (hours at top of website). Or you will get Julian's right hand man... Eric.

Easy peasy! Okay there's a few things to think about - but it is not rocket science.

Any vertical combustible surfaces near your stove or flue pipe should be protected with a heat shield if they are within the distances to combustibles set by the manufacturer (search the Internet to find the "installation instructions" for your stove. A heat shield is made of a non-combustible material (usually steel but Hardiebacker board also works) that will protect the walls of your shed. Heat shields are made from non-combustible materials, and they are fitted with a small air gap between the wall and the shield.

Depending on the location of your stove, and the layout of your shed or garage, you may need shields at both the back and side of the stove.

How to find out more and how to create a heat shield? See our article Distance to Combustibles.

The 4kW Saltfire Scout has a supplied rear heat-shield and this ensures a very low distance to combustibles at the rear of the stove of just (100mm) 4").

We offer 14 days from delivery to report any courier damage to your parts. If your item is damaged by the courier we will replace or refund as desired.