LIVE CHAT MONDAY 12-5 TUES-FRI 9-5 Tel: 01492 535 852 | Text 07520 635 388


Your Cart is Empty

How to connect your stove to your chimney liner using an adaptor

By Julian Patrick

Straight lengths of vitreous pipe can be cut down (e.g. if you think you need between 40cm and 65cm you could by a one metre and cut to length)

Black vitreous pipe always fits into stove “tapered end downwards”. In other words the male is on top inserting into the female below ;)

The reason for this is that condensation runs down the pipe and we do not want it escaping at the joints. If black pipe is a loose fit into the stove collar use fire rope in the gap (if gap 5mm or more) or use fire cement in the gap (if gap 4mm or less). Vitreous pipe and stove collars rarely match well.

Adaptor needs a couple of self tapper screws through it and into the adaptor, to prevent the adaptor being pushed out of the black pipe when sweeping (not shown in picture below). One either side of pipe is plenty. Self tappers and very strong drill bit are supplied in “Useful Items Pack” which is also included with all Fitting Packs (ten off self tappers in pack).

Bolts secure liner into adaptor.

Fire cement should be applied to the gap at the top of the adaptor as well as any gap at the bottom of the adaptor.

adaptor 2

To ensure the bottom of this adaptor stays in the black pipe you should add two self tapper screws on opposite sides of the black pipe. A very strong drill bit (adaptor is very hard stainless steel) and self tappers are available in the Stove Fitter’s Store (although the screws are self tapping they really need a pilot hole and hence the drill bit.


Note that joints between sections of vitreous pipe DO NOT require fire cement. Fire cement is used where there is a gap at the stove collar and for sealing gaps at the adaptor. You do not need to get obsessed about making joints airtight. Gaps actually let air INTO the flue as the chimney sucks from the top (hence best to seal reasonably well). Smoke would only exit via gaps if something has gone wrong and then it would also leave via air vents in the stove anyway.

By Julian Patrick

Julian Patrick is the author of The Stovefitter's Manual and an experienced wood burning stove installer (including solid fuel heating systems).

Laid down tools in 2013 to write The Stove Fitter's Manual and open a small shop in North Wales (the Wood Stove Hut). Launched Stovefitter's Warehouse soon after due to fast growth of sales.

Own stove is a DG Ivar 5.


We will happily strive to match any price you may have from any other supplier as long as the other supplier has it in stock.
Offered an "ex-display" or "shop soiled"? We will strive to offer you a new stove for the same price.

Already have a chimney? You need 1. Stove 2. Liner 3. Fitting Pack 4. Chimney closure plate (Hardiebacker board from Builder's merchants or galvanised sheet).That's it!
No chimney? Check out our shed kits or let us design your clip-together chimney design - easy peasy.

Julian Patrick, author of the Stovefitter's Manual

Stovefitter's Warehouse is owned and managed by Julian Patrick, blogger and author of The Stove Fitter's Manual. Julian was previously a full-time installer of wood-burning stoves (including solid fuel heating systems). He laid down the tools in 2013 to write his stove manual and open a small shop in North Wales (the Wood Stove Hut, soon to grow into The Stovefitter's Warehouse).

More info about the company and Julian's team here