What is a register plate and do I need one? Make your own save £££'s...
What is a register plate and do I need one? Make your own save £££'s...
5 mins

What is a register plate and do I need one?

Register plate for a wood stove

A closure plate and a register plate are not the same.

A register plate is the default choice when a chimney has no stainless-steel chimney liner. The register plate closes off the chimney at its base, just above a wood burning stove.

The register plate acts as a barrier to prevent the smoke and fumes in the chimney from entering the room. For this reason the register plate MUST be made of galvanised or stainless steel (or other non-rusting metal) at least 2mm thick.

Why must a register plate be made of metal? If the plate failed then smoke could enter the roomand this could happen, for example, if a brick fell from inside of the chimney. A metal plate is deemed to be strong enough to withstand such a rare ocurrence.

A register plate will usually have access doors to allow the sweep to access any chamber above it in order to remove fallen soot that may otherwise collect and turn into a fire hazard.

In the image above the register plate is for a large fireplace recess. There is a hole in the middle for the flue pipe and two hatches either side for accessing above the plate to retrieve soot. In smaller fireplaces there may be little room for these hatches and this causes difficulty. It is usually the wisest choice to fit a chimney liner and avoid the need for a closure plate. Instead you can fit a more simple "closure plate" (see lower down in this article). A closure plate does not have to be metal and does not have to have access hatches.

If a 904 316 chimney liner is being fitted then a register plate is not required. A plate is still required (to prevent heat being wasted by travelling up into the chimney and also to prevent "old soot smells" into the room as a chimney warms from the heat of the liner) but this plate is called a closure plate which we will come to shortly. It is rare nowadays that chimney liners are not fitted (although stove flue pipes might be connected directly to pot lined chimneys) and register plates are rarely fitted nowadays.

Also see: opening up a fireplace, lining a fireplace, how to fit a register plate, distance to combustibles, air gap above stove

Closure plate instead of register plate

A closure plate is used when a chimney liner, containing flue gases, is present. The closure plate is therefore only required to seal the chimney for cosmetic reasons, to stop soot old soot falling on the stove but also to stop heat disappearing up the chimney and being wasted. If a closure plate developed a fault (e.g.hole) smoke could NOT enter the room as the smoke is contained in a chimney liner.

A closure plate can be made of any non-combustible material. In the picture on this page the closure plate is made of 12mm Hardiebacker concrete board which is arguably much easier to cut than metal. Hardiebacker available from Travis Perkins/B&Q etc. about £15 a sheet 1.2m x 0.8m.

Note that the small square plate around the stove pipe is our sealing plate (included in our liner fitting pack). This sealing plate can be removed so inspection of the joint between the black vitreous pipe and the liner "adaptor" can be inspected to check the joint is good (a small gap appears but with a torch one can usually see what is happening). No access hatches are needed in a closure plate but some installers add one if there is room for inspection purposes.

Here is Hardiebacker’s official recess-lining leaflet

How do I fix a closure plate?

I have detailed the fixing of a closure plate here


Do I have to fit a register plate or closure plate?

I do not believe that there is anything in Doc J of the Building Regulations says that you must have a closure plate if you have a liner (unlike a register plate which is a must-have if there is no liner).

It is a very good idea though. Chimneys can smell "sooty". Soot can fall from the old chimney onto your wood burner. The chimney may draw air from bottom to top (finding gaps around the cowl) and this is all draw denied to your stove.

FAQs

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Costs correct as of April 2023:

Approx. costs if you have a chimney and fireplace ready to use: £750-£1,000 (save £500 by self-installing).

Approx. costs if you have a chimney but need the fireplace "opening up": £1,600-£2,200 (save £1200 by self-installing).

Approx. costs if you do not have a chimney and need a clip-together flue: Shed £475-£700. Bungalow £1500. 2-storey house £2500. Save £1,000-£1400 by self-installing.

Above figures include labour and materials but no appliance.

We, of course, advise you to purchase your stove and materials from Stovefitter's to ensure quality goods are installed (some installers use budget materials to increase margin). If you buy your stove from us (rather than your local small shop or installer) we have a lot more power when approaching manufacturer's with a warranty issue. Why is that? Because we buy many hundreds of stoves a year from these brands.

We do not fit stoves.

But we know a few who do!

Google: Hetas installers

Hetas are the trade body of registered UK installers.

Most installations will require that you slide a chimney liner down your chimney (flexible metal tube 5" or 6" in diameter). Do you have a narrow chimney and want to lessen the risk that a liner might not go down your chimney? Then make sure your chosen stove can use a 5" liner.

Must I line my chimney? Best read this article but most likely the answer is yes. Do I have to fit a chimney liner?

DEFRA-Exempt wood burning stoves with a 5″ collar can usually be fitted to a five inch liner rather than the usual 6″ minimum, making the installer's job much less stressful.

ALL OF THE 5KW STOVES WE SELL CAN BE FITTED TO A 5" CHIMNEY LINER.

I seriously suggest any self installer fits a 5" liner unless they know their chimney is large enough for a 6"!

What is the best chimney liner? Silvacore 904 (we sell it so of course we will say that ;-). What is the best chimney liner?

Will your stove require an air vent within the room (some stone walls are very difficult to drill)?

5kW or under and wood burning stoves often do not require an air vent (new builds always require an air vent).

What is the maximum output in kW of your "5kW" wood burning stove? The majority of manufacturers just specify the “nominal output” and this figure means very little in real life. The nominal is a figure the manufacturer chooses to sell the stove at - the stove is capable of reaching at least this output with one fuel load. Nominal means "capable of". But it is not the maximum.

Check out the size of the area where the logs will go (firebox size) as this varies enormously. The kW output is completely dependant on the amount of logs burning at any one time - more logs burning equals more heat. If you can fit three logs in stove A and just two logs in stove B then stove A will be capable of throwing out 33% more heat.

DO NOT TRUST MANUFACTURERS’ kW RATINGS as manufacturers specify what output they desire to sell the stove at and testing allows for much “playing with the figures”. This is why you can get very small 5kW stoves (e.g. Aga Little Wenlock) and very large 5kW stoves (e.g. DG Ivar 5 by Dik Geurts which is actually rated 5kW but has a MUCH larger firebox than the Ekol Crystal 5 by Ekol Stoves). A Crystal 5k might get to 5kW and not be capable of any higher whilst a DG Ivar, despite being rated at 5kW, can get to 8kW with a full fuel load.

Note that, over time, one might damage the internal firebricks of a stove by running at a higher load than the manufacturer's suggest. Firebricks are easily replaceable.

Will your wood burning stove fit in your recess WITH the required air gaps around it? This is obviously not an issue if your stove will be freestanding.

Air gaps to non-combustible materials (brick, stone etc.) are usually "as close as you like" legally but manufacturers will sometimes specify a recommendation. This recommendation is there to allow heat to escape from the recess into the room - so you get the heat benefit rather than the heat soaking into the building structure and being lost. If no gap to non-combustibles recommended then we suggest 50-100mm air gap left and right of stove, 50mm behind and 100mm above.

Are you in a Smoke Control Area (usually built up areas)?

Choose your stove accordingly.

A stove must be DEFRA-Approved if you wish to burn wood in a smoke control area.

ALL OF THE STOVES WE SELL ARE DEFRA APPROVED FOR SMOKE CONTROL AREAS.

In simple terms if a stove has an efficiency rating of 70% then 30% of the heat from your logs goes up the chimney.

If a stove has an efficiency rating of 90% then only 10% goes up the chimney.

So think of this in terms of how many logs you have to chop/buy.

Example: A Saltfire Peanut 5 by Saltfire Stoves in Dorset has an efficiciency of 80%.

A tall chimney (6m or more) that is lined will be happy with an efficient stove.

Efficiency importance can be said to be overrated and anything between 75% and 85% is fine. Go much higher and performance can actually suffer (smoke in room when opening door to reload, blackening of glass).

Many modern stoves can go on 12mm thick hearths. Others require full, 5″ thick constructional hearths. All of the stoves we sell state whether or not a 12mm hearth is suitable.More about hearths for wood stoves here.

Can you can talk to somebody on the phone should you need to after the wood burning stove has been delivered, especially if you are self installing? Will the staff at “wesellzillionsofstoves.com” be able to assist with any installation issues? What if there are any problems after install?

Do yourself a favour before ordering stoves or materials on the Internet: Go to Trustpilot and type in the company name before you buy. Some companies advertising at the top of search engines are not good news - check for yourself.

When striving to find thebest 5kW wood burning stovesyou will likely be bewildered by the choice. There are many to choose from. The question I get asked most in our shop is “why should I pay <£1,000> for this one when this other one is just <£500>?”. Here is the very simple answer:the cheaper wood stoves are made in Chinaor Eastern Europe whilst the more expensive are made in Western Europe (or sometimes the USA). Here are a few examples where a more expensive stove might excel over a cheaper stove:

  • Aesthetics (more time spent on design)
  • Hinges (sometimes hidden on more expensive stoves)
  • Better quality glass
  • Thicker steel (longer life)
  • Improved door locking mechanisms
  • Longer warranty
  • Improved controllabilty of flame due to more resource invested on design of air flow within stove
  • Brushed steel fittings instead of cheapy chrome look

Open and close the door on a cheap Chinese stove. Then open and close the door on a DG stoveArada stovesWoodford stovesHamlet stoves or Saltfire stoves. You’ll understand the difference.

Stove pricing reminds me of wine pricing. A £20 bottle of wine is not double the quality of a £10 bottle of wine (the drinking experience might be improved by 20% as an example). We are talking “the law of diminishing returns here. They are all “fire in a metal box” at the end of the day.

Yes. However, there are specific regulations and restrictions in place to address air pollution concerns, particularly in areas designated as Smoke Control Areas. In these areas, only approved "smokeless" fuels or exempt appliances, such as Defra-approved wood-burning stoves, can be used. These stoves are designed to burn wood more efficiently and produce fewer emissions.

All the stoves we sell are DEFRA approved and Eco-design approved and suitable for all areas of the UK.

Terminology

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A stainless steel tube, slides down a brick/stone chimney to provide a smooth and safe route for smoke.

All of our stoves are approved by DEFRA to burn wood in all UK locations including Smoke Control Areas (towns and cities). Not all stoves are, so be careful if buying elsewhere.

All of our stoves are ECODESIGN approved to be sold in the UK. Not all stoves are, so be careful if buying elsewhere. ECODESIGN is mandatory by law since January 2022.

The base your stove sits on.

If the chimney is the polo mint then the flue is the hole.