Fitting a chimney pot (no chimney liner)

By Julian Patrick

If you are fitting a chimney pot and a liner see Fitting a chimney flue liner to a pot or cowl

Standard Rolltop Chimney Pot (most cowls fit these pots).

If there is an existing chimney pot in place then you will have to remove it. These things can be very heavy and you will need to take great care so as not to drop anything onto your roof or anywhere it may cause damage or injury to person.

I will generally use a lump hammer to break the old chimney, tapping it carefully so as to first cause stress cracks before breaking sections away. With particularly tall pots you can use an angle grinder and lop off top sections one at a time.

Note that pieces will likely fall down the chimney – what’s at the bottom to break or damage (make sure nobody is working within the fireplace)?

Using a breaker drill remove any unrequired or old and loose mortar flaunching from around the base of the old pot and then remove the last of the pot. You might not need to remove all or even any of the flaunching (I have removed a pot from its flaunching, like removing a loose tooth, dropping the new pot in its place).

Typical top of chimney. You can see the slates at the top of the picture. The left hand bricks are seperating one flue from another – these are called the “feathers”. They are often very loose as the mortar has crumbled away.

If you do remove the flaunching you should see something like the pic above (in brick or stone). You should soon have a nice flat area now, a square or rectangle of bricks with the flue down the middle. Spread some mortar on this surface 3:1 mix sand/cement keeping it fairly wet. Many builders will now use peices of slate and place them as a base for the pot, making sure a decent sized hole is left in the middle (just a little smaller than the bottom of the pot). I have used 12mm concrete board and made a hole in the middle (make sure you PVA it). Make sure you do not make this hole smaller than the flue size required by your solid fuel requirements.

The pot will sit on the slate (or concrete board) on a bed of mortar.

Flaunch the mortar at 45 degrees so any water running down the outside of the pot has nowhere to collect.

Flaunching chimney stack

By Julian Patrick

Julian Patrick is the author of The Stovefitter's Manual and an experienced wood burning stove installer (including solid fuel heating systems).

Laid down tools in 2013 to write The Stove Fitter's Manual and open a small shop in North Wales (the Wood Stove Hut). Launched Stovefitter's Warehouse soon after due to fast growth of sales.

Own stove is a DG Ivar 5.

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Julian Patrick, author of the Stovefitter's Manual

Stovefitter's Warehouse is owned and managed by Julian Patrick, blogger and author of The Stove Fitter's Manual. Julian was previously a full-time installer of wood-burning stoves (including solid fuel heating systems). He laid down the tools in 2013 to write his stove manual and open a small shop in North Wales (the Wood Stove Hut, soon to grow into The Stovefitter's Warehouse).

More info about the company and Julian's team here